Repair when the slab is solid and the fault is local. Replace when the base has failed or the damage is spread across the slab. The examples below use the dollar amounts homeowners gave us in their questions. They are their numbers, not our prices.
How do I decide between repair and replacement?
Ask three things. Is the slab still in large solid pieces? Is the damage in one place or everywhere? Is the cause still active? Solid, local and stopped means repair. Broken up, widespread or still moving means replace. Age counts too: a slab near the end of its life is a weak place to put repair money.
My 20-year-old driveway has one section sunk by the garage and I was quoted $9,000 to replace it all. Do I have to?
Probably not. One sunk section by the garage usually means the backfill along the foundation settled, which is a local problem. If the rest of the driveway is level, the real options are to lift that section, or cut it out and repour it. Ask for a price on that section alone and set it beside the $9,000. Full replacement makes sense only if the other sections are also cracked and tired, or you want a matching surface edge to edge.
Should I repair for $7,000 or replace for $14,000 if I am selling in two or three years?
With a sale two or three years away, the repair often makes more sense if it will still look good on the day you list. You would be spending $7,000 less. The test is whether the repair deals with the cause. If it does, and a buyer's inspector will see a sound driveway, the extra $7,000 mostly benefits the next owner. If the repair is a cover-up over a moving base, it may fail before you sell, and then you have paid for both.
I have a few long cracks and I am selling the house. Repair, replace or leave it?
If the cracks are tight and level, clean and seal them and leave the slab. Buyers and inspectors expect some cracking in a California driveway. Cracks with a height difference are another matter, because they are a trip point and will be written up. Fix those. Replacing a whole sound driveway only to sell is rarely money you get back.
One contractor says remove it and another says pour a new layer over it. Who is right?
It depends on the old slab, and the contractor who wants to pour over it should be able to explain why it qualifies. A new layer needs a slab that is not moving, enough height at the garage and doors, and a clear plan for bonding and for the old joints. On Vacaville clay, a driveway that has already tilted will keep moving under a new layer. If the old slab has sunk or rocked, removal is the safer advice.
My 30-year-old driveway has root cracks and I am on a tight budget. Can I grind and patch?
Yes, as a holding measure. On a tight budget, grinding the raised edges takes away the trip points and flexible sealant keeps water out. Expect it to buy time, not to cure anything, because the root is still growing. Plan to replace the worst panels later, and deal with the root at that point with advice from an arborist.
I have many small cracks and no sinking. Is sealing or resurfacing enough?
Often, yes. When there are many small cracks and no sinking, sealing or resurfacing is enough to keep water out and tidy the look. Fine surface cracking, called crazing, is cosmetic. Sealing is the lower-cost step. Resurfacing gives a new face, though fine cracks may print through over time. Neither adds strength, so skip both if the slab has started to move.
When is replacement the only sensible choice?
- The slab is broken into many loose pieces
- Sections have dropped or tilted by more than a lift can correct
- Water runs toward the house and the slope cannot be changed any other way
- The concrete is soft or crumbling through its depth
- The slab is too thin for the vehicles now using it
Replacing also lets us fix what caused the failure: more rock under the slab, steel in it, joints in the right places and a slope that drains.
To get an actual price for your job, ask for a free on-site estimate. We measure, look at the soil and the access, and put the quote in writing. Call (707) 385-5848 or text a photo of the area.